Why I love my stainless mash tun

American Pale Ale mashI don’t use a cooler mash tun. Unlike the majority of all-grain homebrewers, I mash in my boil kettle. It’s a process that was suggested to me by a former employee of my LHBS in order to save money on start-up equipment, and I’ve never changed.

The downside to doing this is that I do a mash transfer to my Zapap lauter tun after my mash is done. It’s one more step, but since I’ve always done it, it seems normal.

The upsides to having my mash in my boil kettle are many. First of all, it’s one less piece of equipment that I had to buy. Secondly, if I want to do a step-mash, or even just ramp up to a mash-out temperature, I don’t have to boil water and hope that I’ve heated enough to get me to the step I want to hit. I just turn on the burner and stir until I hit the temp I want.

I know that mastering a multi-infusion process would be a good thing to learn, and I’m sure I will someday, but for now, I like my process. It works really well for me, and I’m glad to have it.

Book Review: Radical Brewing by Randy Mosher

Radical BrewingRadical Brewing by Randy Mosher is a very interesting book to say the least. I first had the opportunity to flip through this book shortly after switching to all-grain brewing, and I found the book a bit difficult to approach at that time. I was reading a lot of new books, and I was very process oriented at the time, and I found this book, which is packed full of information and ideas, to be a bit overwhelming. A recent discussion with Erik Lars Myers of Mystery Brewing prompted me to give the book another pass.

I was surprised to find upon opening the book for the second time, that there is a whole introductory section for beginning brewers, and some pretty solid advice at that. Little tidbits that would have helped me a long time ago, like the fact that liquid extract goes stale faster than dry extract. (Who would have expected that?) Mosher walks the novice brewer through the process of the first batch, and provides simple steps that any beginning brewer can take to drastically improve their finished product beyond the kits that many homebrew shops sell.

Mosher doesn’t dwell on the beginner’s process long though, and moves on into all-grain brewing, and then into what constitutes the bulk of the book, recipes, historical beers, different styles, and a seemingly never-ending catalog of ideas and methods to make your beers just a little different from the traditional recipe. This, along with several charts and indices of herbs, spices hops, grains and other adjuncts, along with flavor and aroma descriptions, are some of the most valuable assets contained within the pages of Radical Brewing.

Mosher also gives ample coverage to the more popular variations on brewing: basic styles, lagers, belgians, over-the-top big beers, alternative grain beers, spiced beers, even fruit and honey brews. There’s very little that’s not covered in Radical Brewing in some way, shape or form. You’ll likely find yourself with a book full of bookmarks to come back to when you’re ready to do that [insert beer type here].

Radical Brewing is an extremely dense book at over 300 pages, there’s a lot of information. It may seem a little overwhelming at first, but take your time. If you’re an experienced brewer, pick it up and flip the book open anywhere. You’re likely to find something that piques your interest, and gives you a little inspiration that you’ll be grateful for.

Dry Hopping in a Corny Keg

I’ve long disliked the idea of putting hops into the fermenter. It seems like an unecessary step, and I’m always torn between getting the beer kegged fresh and letting the dry-hops have enough time to do their thing. This was further compounded by learning that firkins are often hopped in the cask (though their design allows the hops to settle below the outflow tap).

I decided to try using a hop bag in the keg, and I use corny kegs (or cornelius kegs), the standard 5 gallon soda kegs most homebrewers use. I wanted to use a mesh bag, something that was fairly benign and of natural fibers so that nothing bad would leach into the beer along with the hop flavor and aroma. I settled on the cotton mesh bags that many extract brewers use for their steeping grains. These are cotton and only run about 50 cents a piece. I tried it with my first Pale Ale of the summer (which turned out Amber, but whatever), and it turned out very well. I snapped some photos as I packed up the hops for my second batch of pale ale (and it’s actually pale this time).

Step 1 – sanitize the bag in star san, along with your hands.

hop bag

Step 2 – gently pour your hops into the bag

hops in hop bag

Step 3 – twist the bag around the hops, gently so as not to stretch out the mesh. Double over and repeat until you run out of bag

twisted close hop bag

Step 4 – Shove it into the keg, wedging it under the dip tube to hold it in place (the foam is star san)

hop bag in keg

You dry hop as the beer is conditioning, and it will continue to improve. I had the last hops in the keg for over a month, and could not perceive any negative effects from long term dry-hopping.

Prost!